Back To Basics Skin Care Routine...Starting Over

The case many a time when people do seek out products not easily found on the commercial market is a result of wanting to eliminate synthetics and chemicals in their lives or a frustration with the condition of their skin. Often it is a matter of going back to basics and starting over.

A mistake people often make with cleansing their face is that the products used are too harsh and strip the skin of their natural oils, leaving the skin pH out of whack resulting in too dry skin lacking the balanced oils that normally protect the barrier. In trying to get back to normal there can be an overproduction of sebum which we then try to scrub off by washing even more and the cycle continues.
A good routine to follow includes: a cleanse, an occasional steam and/or mask, then a toner and last a moisturizer if needed

I have two types of FACIAL CLEANSE, one is like a serum and the other is a honey/glycerin/castile soap blend:
First we have the oil cleanse method.
Remember years ago when women used cold creams? That method was basically using cleansing oils that removed makeup and dirt from the skin. It was a gentle approach to cleansing both dry and oily skin. I got this recipe from an old herbal book. 

Aloe Rose Facial Cleanse

Some people like this to cleanse and additionally use a moisturizer, others think this is enough for both cleansing and moisturizing. It consists of olive oil (this could be replaced with a "drier" oil such as grapeseed for oily skin), rosewater and aloe vera gel. You would apply this to a cotton round and simply wipe over your face to cleanse and moisturize and the same time. Second option is to use it like you would any other facial wash and rinse off with water.

Cleaning your face with oil may sound unappealing but contrary to popular belief, oil does not contribute to oily skin or breakouts. The sebum that the skin creates is there to protect the skin. When we use commercial cleansers to remove this natural oil, the body reacts by producing more oil. Dry skin is often the result of stripping away this natural barrier and things get out of balance. It is the same as how our hair adjusts to constant shampooing.
In washing our faces we want to remove the dirt and bacterial which builds up in our pores but we have to think about the chemistry behind it. Oil dissolves oil, like dissolves like. Water and oil do not mix; commercial cleansers contain ingredients to break up the oils but in doing so may strip away the natural protective layer. By using a nourishing oil like olive oil, the dirty oils are being replaced with beneficial ones.

Some people like to use the above serum type cleanse on some days and then the more traditional wash with water on other days, just to mix things up and get the benefits from both types.
There are three versions of the honey/glycerin/castile soap washes, mainly its personal preference. The first one uses essential oils orange or lemon which you may like for oily skin since they are more astringent. The next one is made with the honey infused with rose petals and the third the honey is infused with lavender.

Citrus Honey Facial Wash

Rose Honey Facial Wash

Lavender Honey Facial Wash

Wildflower and clover honey already have the beneficial attributes of various herbs and flowers within the honey itself. Honey is a natural humectant which means it retains moisture and plumps up skin cells. It helps to rebuild the moisture level in the skin without making it oily. The high sugar, low protein content create an acidic environment with limited availability of water therefore bacteria cannot thrive.
Glucose oxidase is an enzyme that when combined with water produces hydrogen peroxide, a mild antiseptic. Honey also contains antioxidants and flavonoids that may function as antibacterial agents. It calms down troubled skin without irritation.
Vegetable glycerin is what is known as a humectant which means it draws moisture from the air and holds it in. As part of a cleanse it bonds to dirt and oil and washes away.


To open up the pores, you can follow the cleanse with a 20 minute facial steam in which you fill a bowl with steaming water (add an herbal tea bag for extra benefits), make a tent by covering your head with a towel, and lean over the bowl.


Follow the steam with a RAW HONEY MASK or an exfoliating SUGAR SCRUB for wonderful benefits.
Masks and scrubs are great for periodic use for deeper cleansing to draw out impurities or for exfoliation to remove dead skin cell build-up. These aren't meant to use every day, once or twice a week is sufficient. Add variety by mixing it up a little, and there is no need to use both the mask and the scrub at the same time.

Unpasteurized honey contains all the live enzymes and life of the hive without being destroyed by the heat of pasteurization. Typical store bought honey is pasteurized to make it nice and pourable and remove bits of wax and stuff from the hive. Having a high anti-oxidant level and being the natural enzymes have not been destroyed by heat, raw honey is a much healthier product.
Facial masks are wonderful for deep cleaning in that they penetrate below the surface and draw out impurities. Honey masks are nourishing, moisturizing and gentle enough to not strip the skin of its natural protective oils.
When you wash the honey off your skin, a small amount remains in the pores. As a result, the sugars in the honey attract water from the air, which keeps your skin hydrated.

The first mask has tea tree and chamomile and is good for blemishes. The second one is good for blemishes too but in using lavender is more gentle. The third one is great for oily skin as it contains peppermint and lemongrass which are astringent and antiseptic.

Blemish Honey Mask

Lavender Honey Mask

Oily Tired Skin Honey Mask

Scrubs are optional as they may be too harsh for already irritated skin.
The choice between sugar or salt for scrubs depends on how it is to be used. For the delicate skin of the face sugar scrubs are gentler. People often make the mistake that if they scrub they'll scrape those blemishes right off when actually they are irritating the skin further causing more inflammation.
One uses vegetable glycerin instead of an oil and the other two use coconut oil. The glycerin scrub is "goopier" and good if you like a looser scrub. The coconut oil ones tend to be more compact since coconut oil solidifies under 75 degrees. But as soon as you touch it it melts and gets soft again.

Vanilla Sugar Scrub

Vegetable Glycerin Lavender Sugar Scrub

Coconut Sugar Scrub Lemongrass

Finish up with a gentle TONER:
The herbal vinegars are great for getting and keeping the skin pH back in balance. It's personal preference as any of them are tonics for the skin.
The first one uses herbs for their anti-inflammatory benefits and the second is an old-fashioned blend of roses and elderflowers which were used for their high vitamin C content.

Calendula Nettles Chamomile Toner

Rose Elderflower Toner

Herbal Blemish Spot Treatment

This third one is stronger than the other toners because it doesn't have the dilution of distilled water. It's more of a spot treatment for blemishes. It does make a great everyday toner too if it's diluted a bit which is an option when purchased.

The natural pH of the skin is what keeps bacteria levels in check Disruption of the skin's pH can be detrimental to your skin, because bacteria thrives in an environment only a little more alkaline than your skin's natural acidity. Once bacteria thrives it can lead to inflammation and generating more clogged pores.
Good quality raw vinegars restore the natural acid balance of the skin, leaving it soft and smooth.
By promoting circulation in the small capillaries that irrigate the skin, vinegar becomes a tonic for the complexion. Raw vinegars don't go through the processing and distilling of the typical clear vinegars, therefore raw vinegar still contains the living nutrients and beneficial bacteria of the "mother".
Vinegar acts as an antiseptic, meaning it prevents proliferation of bacteria, viruses and yeast that could trigger infection. As a facial toner, it removes oily residue as it dissolves fatty deposits at the surface of the skin.


Third step on a daily basis is to MOISTURIZE

There are several facial cream choices and one lighter lotion. They vary in ingredients just to offer options for personal preference or allergies but they all are very good for different skin types. The oil to water ratio is almost 50/50 whereas most lotions in pump bottles are 20/80. The key is how often and how much to use at a time. People with dry skin find these creams nourishing and great relief for parched feeling skin and those who don't need a heavier cream may find they only need a tiny bit or perhaps only need it as a night cream.

Herb Floral Facial Cream

Elderflower Rose Facial Cream

Rose Facial Cream

Serenity Facial Cream

Scent Free Facial Cream

Wrinkle Wrath Facial Cream

Touch of Bliss Facial Cream

Vanilla Wrinkle Wrath Facial Cream

This lotion has a higher liquid portion and doesn't have a solid oil such as shea butter or coconut oil. This lotion was originally the request from a woman who had skin troubles and was allergic to coconut oil. But since some people just want a lighter lotion rather than a cream I left the listing as it is. The essential oils chamomile and tea tree are the usual ones in the lotion only because it originally was wanted for and to prevent future blemishes. But if you don't need that, you can leave it unscented or add something else.

Sensitive Skin Lotion

Everyone has different needs and preferences, therefore there is no one product or routine that fits all. Getting to know what works best for you may be trial and error, but hopefully with options like these products you can be reassured the "first do no harm" philosophy is a priority.

meadowmuffingardens.com
meadowmuffingardens.etsy.com

Hydrating and Moisturizing Dry Skin...What's The Difference

The terms moisturizing and hydration are used interchangeably but they are not actually the same thing. Normally, when people have dry skin they go out and purchase a lotion and think little else about it. We reach for a cream or lotion to moisturize our dry skin without really thinking about what the purpose is for each of the ingredients. A bit more observation of what is on the store shelves brings us to the assortment of body butters and balms. The butters are advertised as containing the ultimate moisturizers for baby soft skin. So what is the difference and when is one better than the other?
Well, it all depends on the needs of the skin.

Our skin is the largest organ on our bodies. We don't often think about its function and importance until something isn't quite right. When you think about our internal bodies and the external environment, our skin is what supports and protects our entire system. Should the skin become out of balance, it doesn't take long for us to notice.

Our skin functions as both a physical and chemical barrier. It prevents the penetration from allergens and bacteria, prevents evaporation of water and helps maintain body temperature. Problems arise when there is a disruption in the skin barrier, resulting in trouble maintaining proper moisture balance.

Healthy skin is able to produce what are called lipid cells. The purpose of these cells is to trigger the skin's natural ability to protect from moisture loss. There is communication to the sebaceous glands to produce sebum which is our skin's natural oils. Should there be a disruption of this lipid barrier, the resulting loss of hydration leads to suffering from inflammation, dry flaky skin, itchiness, wrinkles and even trouble staying warm.

Environmental conditions such as cold, wind and sun can all upset the barrier function. Harsh soaps and cleansing products can strip the skins natural sebum. But there are situations when it goes beyond the occasional need for moisturizing due to such things as dry indoor heat during the winter. Autoimmune conditions can play havoc on the normal functioning of our bodies and being the skin is one of our organs, it is vulnerable as well to disruption. Eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis and lupus are examples of such aggravating chronic conditions. Allergic reactions to medication can also cause detrimental issues with the skin.

The natural barrier of skin is the outermost layer of the epidermis called the stratum corneum. Its function is to prevent invasion from threats such as bacteria and allergens and prevent what is called trans epidermal water loss (TWEL). Healthy skin shouldn't need continuous help from moisturizers to prevent evaporation of water from the skin. There are multiple stacks of flattened cells called corneocytes which are layers and layers of dead cells with a surrounding oily water-repelling coating. This provides a barrier to the escape of water and protection from the environment. The mixture and structure of lipids in the spaces between the corneocytes allows the correct maintenance of the barrier.

The loss of the lipids that sit between the skin cells results in flaking, tightness, redness and itching. A damaged barrier affects nerve endings which lead to itching that goes beyond the typical satisfaction of scratching an itch and that's the end of it. This type of itching only gets more aggravated by scratching. It's almost like a domino affect where to start scratching starts a chain reaction where the itch pops up here, there and seemingly everywhere. Scratching to relieve the itch further injures the barrier causing redness and inflammation. Anyone who suffers from dry skin conditions knows very well by scratching there is increased risk of injury and infection but it is very difficult to break the itch, scratch, itch cycle.
Here is a very good article by dermatologist Dr. Gil Yosipovitch about how itch can be a disease in itself.

When skin is having trouble maintaining proper moisture, what it needs is first hydration and then creams, lotions or butters to hold in the moisture. Moisturizers are formulated to hold moisture in and hydrating products are to increase the water content of the skin which then helps moisturizers do their job. What are first needed are humectants, such as vegetable glycerin, aloe and honey. They absorb water from the air and bind it to the skin.

The most effective creams and lotions for dry skin combine the hydrating effects of water and the lubricating effects of oil(s). The term for trapping in the water to prevent evaporation is occlusion. Good occlusion ingredients to look for are cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter, coconut oil and beeswax. The barrier created is called hydrophobic or "water hating" which reduces TEWL or transepidermal water loss.

Ingredients that soothe, lubricate and bring wonderful relief are those that help our skin feel smooth and supple. These are the emollients that help the skin repair the damaged lipid layer through the cell renewal process. They penetrate the outer layers of the stratum corneum. Plant oils, cocoa butter, lanolin and shea butter are good examples of emollients.

Jojoba oil is so close to our natural sebum that it is an excellent lubricant and help with barrier repair. Castor oil and coconut oil are very high in triglycerides which are very moisturizing.
Linoleic acid is one of the most significant lipids for barrier function. Oils high in linoleic acid include rosehip seed oil, hemp seed oil, pumpkin seed oil and evening primrose oil.
Lecithin is high in phospholipids which are a class of lipids. .
Olive oil and wheat germ oil are high in squaline.
Shea butter and mango butter are high in fatty acids and sterols.
Other wonderful plant oils for skin health include sweet almond, apricot, sunflower, avocado and grapeseed. High in antioxidants and vitamins, these are all considered nourishing "skin food"

Hydrating ingredients make the skin more receptive to absorbing all the beneficial ingredients in the moisturizer. A good lotion or cream has the benefit of both hydration and moisturizing. This is why for severely dry skin, to just slather on oil based salves, vaseline or butters, though it feels wonderful at first, you'll wonder where it goes since the skin seems to need frequent applications.That is because these barriers don't have the moisture that is normally in the skin to help them absorb.

The difference between a cream and a lotion is the oil to water ratio. Lotions are lighter due to the higher water content. Body butters may or may not also include liquid plant oils in addition to the solid butters such as shea, coconut oil and mango, but don't contain any water. Depending on the needs of the skin you can choose which is best for your situation. Once the skin is showing signs of improvement, you may only need a light lotion. Butters are rich and help skin feel baby soft, and does reduce loss of moisture, but won't directly moisturize. The best way to use moisturizers and body butters is to apply to dampened skin such as after a bath or shower. A layer of water on the skin prior to applying the moisturizer or butter is ideal.

A healthy skin is our first impression to the world so do what you can so you glow!

Meadow Muffin Gardens

SPF Protection....Any Time

Just because it is the middle of winter doesn't mean you don't need sun protection on days you know you'll be outside for an extended period of time. Creams made with added protection against the sun's glare off the snow also offer protection from wind-whipped skin.

Any of our facial creams can be made with added zinc oxide which acts as a physical block and deflects the sun's rays like a mirror. The micronized particles of this mineral sit on the outermost layer of the skin, scattering and absorbing UVA and UVB rays. These creams have not been tested by the FDA, therefore cannot be called sunscreens, but they can be called sunblocks. The amount of zinc oxide added is said to be enough to offer about a 15-20 SPF rating.

The SPF creams are a bit richer than their original versions. They can be used every day if desired, or they can be used occasionally when there is a need for more protection, depending on the weather and what activity you plan on doing. Certainly ideal this time of year for snow boarding and skiing.

What gives these creams that extra touch against the harsh elements is that they consist of a number of rich oils and butters which not only hydrate but help retain and hold in that moisture. These ingredients are also special in that they have their own natural, though low, SPF factors.

Coconut oil is a 4
Shea butter is a 6
Avocado oil is an 8
Wheat germ oil is a whopping 20
These are in all the creams.

All the creams are a little different to add variety, so these oils are in some but not all:
Hazelnut oil is a 10
Almond oil is a 5

Then all of them have Aloe, Beeswax, Vitamin E and Carrot essential oil.
Aloe Vera gel which is very cooling offers anti-inflammatory relief should the skin be out a little too long.

So what is so wrong with the typical store bought sunscreen?
The average sunscreens are what is called "chemical" sunscreens. They contain ingredients that may be absorbed and have the potential to disrupt the body's hormone systems.
The Environmental Working Group (EWG) and the FDA are in disagreement as to the safety with the use of retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A) and oxybenzone. So while the debate continues, perhaps it is best to use what are called "mineral" sunblocks, those with added zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.

A very good article to better understand the terminology behind SPF, UVA and UVB was written by Marie Be

Body Lotion Sunblock

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Rosewater, A Timeless Tradition in Beautiful Skin

Roses remind us of days past when roses were valued for more than just their beauty. Roses contain a substantial amount of vitamin C which results in an acidic rosewater helpful in reducing thread veins through the rose's tonic effects on the capillaries.
 By stimulating blood circulation, skin cells certainly benefit, bringing back that glow. Astringent and antiseptic properties make rosewater a favorite for those with sensitive skin who are seeking a gentle facial cleanser without added ingredients that could aggravate already irritated or dry skin.
Because rosewater contains anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and astringent properties, it is one of the best and most traditional facial cleansers. Not to mention the beautiful, lovely scent.

Here is an explanation of these benefits:

Anti-inflammatory
An anti-inflammatory is a substance that reduces inflammation. Those with under-eye inflammation or on skin that received a bit too much sun can benefit from the application of rosewater.

Astringent
An astringent can be synthetic or natural. It is used to remove soap film, cellular debris and excess oil on the surface of the skin. Tones pores without irritating the skin, rosewater is a very natural way to cleanse the pores.

Anti-bacterial
Anti-bacterial means hostile to bacteria. Rosewater contains properties that help with problem skin.

Moisturizing
Rosewater contains natural oils that help keep skin hydrated without clogging pores.

Mood enhancing
Roses contain a relaxing and feel good aroma, sure to result in a little smile as one inhales.

Stimulates circulation
Rosewater stimulates blood circulation in the blood vessels. By stimulating the blood vessels of the underlying skin cells, improvement can be achieved for such things as: under-eye puffiness and dark circles, thread veins, aging skin and sunburn.

Rosewater is made from roses, distilled water, alcohol for preservation and a touch of rosewater concentrate essential oil for additional fragrance. Without any method of preservation, this would be like any other herbal infusion and spoil within days. The alcohol is added during the solar infusion process and is not at a high enough ratio to dry out the skin.
You can be assured these roses are absolutely free of the use of pesticides. They are picked from my own rose bushes or purchased from reputable, organic suppliers.



Below are facial care products utilizing the wonders of rosewater for organic, natural, gentle skin care

Rosewater n' Glycerin Splash

Rosewater Facial Toner

Elderflower & Rose Vinegar Toner

Aloe Rose Facial Cleanse, Serum

Rose Facial Cream

Men's Personal Skin Care, Safe Cosmetics

 "The average American man uses six personal care products a day containing more than 80 unique chemicals. Many of these chemicals are absorbed into the skin, inhaled or ingested, and the vast majority of cosmetic chemicals have not been assessed for safety."

This statement was made by The Campaign For Safe Cosmetics. Usually when we think of the cosmetic industry we think of women, but this industry includes the personal care products used by men as well. Shampoos, shaving products, body wash, body sprays, deodorants...all advertised to help our men smell alluring and masculine.

 

Walk into a beauty salon, cosmetic section, or skin care line aisle and it is easy to get enveloped in the wonderful smells and appealing promises of slick packaging and advertising. You may wonder what the big deal is with the ingredients. I mean, you would think if there was something potentially harmful in these products they wouldn't be on the shelves in the first place.

It was very surprising for me to learn how vague the labeling laws are in the perfume and cosmetics industry. Unlike the food industry, there are no legal standards for organic or natural personal care products sold in the United States.

Ignorance is not bliss when it comes to you and your family's health. Don't think there isn't a problem just because the majority hasn't yet balked and made a fuss. Don't let the influence of the glamour and subliminal messaging behind the cosmetic industry cause you to doubt yourself just because you seem to appear the odd one in your circle. Sure, when you look around, people seem just fine. But if you or someone you love develops a condition where you find yourself far too often in some doctor's office, take another look around you. Our society really does have a lot of health issues.

 Our health is our own responsibility, therefore it is up to us to be willing to educate ourselves and search and check the labels on these products. The skin is our body's largest organ, and anything we apply to ourselves enters through the layers of skin into the bloodstream. Yes, the old saying about "anything in moderation" is true with most things, but...The cosmetic industry claims the amount of these ingredients are not high enough to pose a threat, but the problem lies in the fact that we use these products day in and day out.  Our kidneys and liver do their best to eliminate toxins but what about those that over time have been stored within the fatty tissues of the skin. The long term effects are a concern. The body reacts by way of allergic and inflammatory reactions, the havoc played on the the endocrine system is not always fully understood and the source of the problems are often hard to pinpoint.

 It is time to fight back and take control of your health and that of your family. Read labels and educate yourselves. Don't expect the FDA or the government to have your family's best interests in mind as long as our society is so influenced by big business.

Two red flag ingredients that we are hearing a lot about are phthalates and parabens.  

For a more detailed list of what is in your personal care items:

What's in your products? 

Phthalates are a class of chemicals used to dissolve ingredients so that they blend efficiently. 

Diethyl phthalate (DEP) found in fragrance-containing products such as cologne, aftershave, shaving cream, shampoos and deodorants. You may not see the actual term, phthalates, on the label but you will see them listed as parfum or fragrance. Sounds harmless labeled that way but studies are finding links between DEP and reproductive development in infants and sperm damage in adult men. A study by Harvard University researchers have found that the regular use of colognes can increase the levels of DEP in the body.

Parabens are synthetic preservatives used in foods, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and personal care products such as deodorants, moisturizers and shampoos. Look for the words: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. Parabens allow skin care products to survive for months or even years in your medicine cabinet; however, they also enter your body through your skin when you use these products. According to Mercola.com, the body can absorb as much as five pounds of cosmetic chemicals every year. 

Parabens can mimic hormones in the body and disrupt functions of the endocrine system, which involves the thyroid, adrenals and reproductive system. The endocrine system releases hormones into the bloodstream and is involved in a number of functions related to reproduction, waste elimination, digestion and metabolism.

You won’t, unfortunately, find phthalates listed on a label, but the best way to avoid them is look out for ‘fragrance’ or parfum’.

Colby College's Clean Makeup website reports that parabens can mimic estrogen and disrupt the body's hormone system. Your body does not easily break down synthetic estrogen, and it can accumulate in fat cells, including breast tissue.

Other product ingredients to look for in your personal care supplies:
Lead acetate: found in men's hair and beard colorants.
Coal tar: found in dandruff shampoos
Triclosan: found in antibacterial soaps and deodorants
Formaldeyde: found in some shampoos and body washes

Men today realize the importance of taking care of their appearance and it all starts with skincare. Men often don't experience the same problems as women with dry skin. Being men produce testosterone, their skin tends to be thicker than that of of women, therefore women tend to show signs of aging sooner then men. After the age of about 30, the skin's oil glands reduce their production and the loss contributes to drier skin. Both sexes experience a drop in hormonal levels as they age, but in women the decline is more dramatic. With a decrease in estrogen levels the skin's fat layer begins to thin, resulting in the skin becoming not only drier, but less firm and more fragile. Women usually know to use a moisturizer as part of their skin care routine, but men often don't even think about that until later in adulthood. Men need to moisturize too.

With awareness comes the task of making wise decisions. Rather than worry, educate yourself with the truth behind the hype, and be a wise consumer by going the all natural route.

Shaving Balm, Facial Moisturizer

Private Parts Powder

Fungal Powder

Stick Deodorant

Facial Moisturizer

Aftershave Splash

Dandruff Scalp Oil

Shampoo